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CARIBBEAT: Anthony Bourdain’s taste brought customers and popularity to tiny roadside St. Maarten restaurant

“Windsor Castle” was in a small trailer parked on a long, narrow strip of land in Dutch St. Maarten with a slew of small businesses as neighbors. The likable proprietor, Hilma Harris, sold johnnycakes (traditional flat-fried or griddled cornmeal creations), patties stuffed with fish, chicken or beef, and other treats and drinks. Her breakfast and lunch clientele were island locals and tourists who came by word of mouth. But over the years, thousands more visitors, sparked by Bourdain’s favorable 2004 review, came to Hilma’s seeking the casual atmosphere, good food and great conversation he experienced with Harris — and they were not disappointed. Bourdain loved Harris and her eatery and she, and her customers, had praise for “Tony.”

Jared McCallister

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